A good wool sweater can last for many winters, and most of what shortens its life happens on laundry day. Wool needs less washing than cotton, gentler handling when wet, and a flat surface to dry on. Here is a routine that works for merino crewnecks, cable-knit cardigans, toques, scarves and shawls alike.
Before anything else, read the care label. It reflects the fibre blend, the dyes and how the piece was finished, and it overrides any general advice, including this article.
Wash less, air more
Wool resists odour well, so a sweater worn over a shirt rarely needs washing after one wear. Between wears, hang it over the back of a chair or lay it flat somewhere airy overnight and most smells fade on their own. Brush off surface dirt with a soft clothes brush once it's dry.
Wash when there's a visible mark, when the knit has lost its shape at the cuffs and elbows, or after several wears next to the skin. For pieces worn every day in winter, a few washes a season is usually enough.
Hand washing, step by step
- Use cool or lukewarm water. Hot water combined with rubbing is what makes wool fibres lock together and shrink, a process called felting. Keep the water at a temperature that feels comfortable on your wrist.
- Choose a wool detergent. Look for a liquid labelled for wool or delicates. Regular detergents with enzymes meant for food stains can break down the proteins wool is made of.
- Turn the piece inside out and submerge it. Press it gently under the water so it soaks evenly, then leave it for a few minutes.
- Don't rub or wring. Squeeze the suds through the knit with flat hands. For a spot, work a drop of detergent in with your fingertips.
- Rinse in water of the same temperature. A sudden change from warm to cold can also encourage felting. Rinse until the water runs clear.
- Press out the water. Lift the sweater out supported in both hands, so the wet weight doesn't stretch it. Press it against the side of the basin, then roll it in a dry towel and press the roll to soak up more water.
Machine washing
Many wool garments can go in the machine if the label allows it. Use the wool or hand-wash cycle, cold water, a low spin and a wool detergent. A mesh laundry bag reduces rubbing against other items. If the label says hand wash only, believe it: machine agitation is harder on wool than it looks.
Drying flat
Never hang a wet sweater. The water weighs it down and stretches the shoulders and body out of shape. Instead:
- lay it flat on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack, away from radiators, heat vents and direct sunlight;
- ease it back to shape with your hands: square the shoulders, straighten the ribbing, line up the cuffs;
- turn it over once the top side feels dry so the underside dries too.
A tumble dryer will shrink most wool, even on low heat, unless the label explicitly says otherwise.
Pilling
Small balls of fibre form where a knit rubs against itself or a bag strap, usually under the arms and along the sides. Pilling is a property of soft, loosely spun yarns and does not mean the piece is faulty. Remove the pills with a sweater comb or a fabric shaver held flat against the knit, working in light strokes. Don't pull them off by hand, which draws more fibre out of the yarn.
Storing knitwear
Fold sweaters rather than hanging them; hangers leave bumps in the shoulders and let the knit stretch under its own weight. Store them clean, because moths and carpet beetles are drawn to body oils and food residue more than to wool itself. For the summer, put clean knits in a breathable cotton bag or a lidded box, and add cedar blocks or lavender sachets if you like their scent. Check stored pieces once or twice during the off-season.
Small repairs
A snagged loop can usually be eased back into the knit from the inside with a blunt darning needle or a crochet hook. Don't cut it, which can start a run. For a small hole, darn it with yarn of a similar weight and colour before it grows. A mender or a dry cleaner who offers repairs can handle larger damage.
A quick checklist
- Air between wears; wash only when needed.
- Cool water, wool detergent, no wringing.
- Same temperature to wash and rinse.
- Dry flat, reshape by hand, keep away from heat.
- Fold, don't hang; store clean.
Looking for something new to look after? Browse the knitwear in the shop: sweaters, cardigans, toques and shawls from the marketplace's sellers.